I took my first surfing lesson, this past summer, and learned a very important lesson my first time out; surfing is NOT, I repeat, NOT , that easy of an activity. When I first got to the beach, the instructor had me do some light stretching to get the body ready for the journey ahead. He then had me do some “popping up” drills, on the sand, to get me used to getting up when a wave started to approach. After about a half an hour, we set out for the ocean. I thought I wouldn’t be that intimidated, about what was to come, but I actually was.
There were five specific surfer films that, at least in my mind, that made surfing look somewhat easy to master: Point break, Soul Surfer, Big Wednesday, North Shore, and Blue Crush. Not so much that it’s an easy feat to accomplish but more so that it wouldn’t take that long to pick up. I’ve seen Point Break, a million times it seems, and I thought Keanu Reeves character (Jonny Utah) picked up surfing quite quickly. I said to myself if Keanu can do it, then the sky is the limit for me as well:)
I was under the impression that I would pick it up in a years’ time, no more than that. Again, I was highly mistaken and I realized the first minute I put the board in the water, and started walking out there, that this was going to be a lot harder than I initially thought.
There was even an art to how you positioned yourself on the board; I just thought you just jump right on the thing and start paddling like no tomorrow. That wasn’t the case at all and I started telling myself this thing, they refer to as surfing, will be a lifelong type of an adventure. The funny thing was that I truly didn’t care at all; every time I slipped off the board, I had a huge smile on my face and got right back on. I was just having fun being out there in the water and I was getting a GREAT workout, as a result.
After an hour and a half of a lesson, my surf teacher asked me if I wanted to try and catch a “wave.” My response was an emphatic, YESS. He had gotten me to face the board towards the beach shore. We had waited for a few minutes until he gave me the green light to start paddling like crazy; that is exactly what I ended up doing. First time, I got up half way and fell immediately. Second time, I stood myself up and jumped right off into the water; I think I was just ecstatic enough to have just got up. Third time, I not only got myself up but I also rode the wave for a few seconds; it was an absolutely exhilarating feeling that started to run through me.
I’ve been back out several times after and I’m definitely considered a “kook” and a “barney.” Those are terms for beginning surfers. When I first heard the term, “barney,” I was waiting for some guy to be riding the wave in a purple wetsuit to resemble BARNEY, the purple dinosaur that loves each and every person equally. I was totally wrong; now that I know what it means, I have a long way to mastering this art form and I’m ready for the ride.
If you ever thought about surfing, I would highly recommend giving it a whirl. If you’re a fan of Family Guy, the Rides-a-Ten-Speed-Everywhere-Guy will definitely say that it’s a great way to stay in shape:) Have a great weekend; until next time….